Verona is a beautiful Italian city and a popular tourist destination. Visitors flock to the city to see settings purportedly linked to events in Shakespeare's play Romeo and Juliet and the crowds increase further during summer with the renowned open-air opera festival held in the Roman Arena. The setting of the historic centre within the large curve of the Adige river is stunning and, as a prosperous city over many centuries, works of art in galleries and churches keep you busy if the weather takes a turn for the worse. We have just returned from a visit to Verona when once again we ate and drank well.
The Veneto region where Verona is situated is of course home to some to the most famous wines of Italy; Valpolicella, Soave, and Prosecco for example being representative of the three styles - red, white, and sparkling. We certainly enjoyed various bottles of Valpolicella Ripasso to accompany meals but it was a couple of decent yet unfamiliar whites, one still the other sparkling, that were particularly interesting. Both are competitively priced and, although subsequently I see a few independent retailers stock the odd bottle or two, these wines are far from widely available in the UK. This is a pity because I'm pretty sure one of the large supermarket chains here would do well with both wines by marketing them on a "If you like X, try Y" basis. First, the still wine .....
BIANCO DI CUSTOZA
This is a light wine from a defined area around the small village of Custoza, 12 miles or so west of Verona. In most cases it is made to be drunk young and tends to be the cheapest glass of white wine in bars in the city. We found it in some places for just 2.50€ a glass. For that price it is hardly going to be complex and sophisticated but it's a refreshing easy drinking wine and the ideal aperitif in the sun. It is a blend of typical grapes of the area (e.g. Garganega, Trebbiano, Cortese, Fruilana) with production regulations allowing a certain amount of flexibility regarding the precise mix in order for producers to develop wines according to taste. At the cheaper end the wine is definitely drinkable but it is clear that paying a little more offers a bit more complexity. We bought a bottle of Poggio delle Grazie Custoza 2022 for approx £13. It costs nearly £5 more in the UK. The well respected Monte del Frà winemaker produces a basic white Custoza DOC designed to be drunk young, currently available in the UK around £14 although the Monte del Frà, Cà Del Magro Custoza Superiore DOC at a £5 premium in the UK has ageing potential and would be a successful accompaniment to fish and more substantial meals. (Retrospectively, I see I could have bought this bottle in Italy for the equivalent of £10). UK independent retailer NY Wines sells a basic Cantina di Custoza, Custoza DOC for around £11.
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| Poggio dell Grazie Custoza (left), Cavalchina Amedeo Custoza Superiore (right) |
And now the sparkling .....
DURELLO
I can confirm that, as many commentators point out, this is the sparkling wine of choice in the bars and restaurants of Verona. It is competitively priced and a great alternative to Prosecco. The Durello grape (sometimes referred to as Durella) is grown on the slopes of the Lessini hills east of Verona in the direction of Vicenza. This produces a floral and drier wine than most Proseccos, and one that is frequently noted as having a certain 'honeyed' character. As with most sparkling wines, producers can create wines both through the 'Metodo Cliassico' (Champagne method) and the more quick-release Charmat (tank). method. The latter, aged on the lees for 2-3 months results in a charming fresh and zesty wine that is a real easy drinker. We enjoyed the Dama del Rovere Durello Spumante Brut and brought home a bottle of Bennati Annibale Monte Lessini Durello DOC Spumante Brut. If you fancy seeing how this sparkling wine compares with Prosecco Palladiano Durello Spumante Brut is available in the UK from a number of independents around the £10 mark.
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| Bennati Annibale Monte Lessini Durello DPO Spumante Brut |
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