It is only fairly recently that I have come across the grape variety Négrette but I have to say it is certainly a discovery about which I have no regrets. If, like me, you hadn't heard of it don't worry. It is a rather niche variety, almost exclusive to France, and for all intents and purposes confined to the relative small appellation of Fronton, 35 km or so north of Toulouse. I love the idea of such unusual grape varieties offering something a little different in an increasingly standardised international wine market and in Fronton it is used to produce aromatic rosés and juicy reds. The reds dominate production and account for about 85% of Fronton AOC wines. Rosés account for about 12%.
My initial discovery was through meeting Jérémy and Marina Iseppi, owners of Domaine Bastidum in Labastide-Saint-Pierre, and tasting three of their red wines: Symphonium, Giove, and Solis. Symphonium is made from 100% Négrette and I guess it gave me a feel for the characteristics of the the grape variety - dark and tannic, with red fruit and violet aromas, and a hint of liquorice. But it quickly became clear how Négrette starts to shine when it's the dominant grape in a blend with the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah, or Cabernet Franc. Domaine Bastidum's Giove (70% Négrette, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) had more about it than Symphonium and Solis, a blend of Négrette with Malbec, was my preferred wine of the three.
This initial encounter has led me to explore what other Négrette-based Fronton wines are available in the UK and frankly the choice is rather limited. Presumably the wise folks in nearby Toulouse are keeping the relatively limited production to themselves! As far as I can see most of the big supermarkets and high street outlets have largely ignored Fronton wines which is rather odd given they are relatively good value for money. I take my hat off therefore to Sainsburys where there are currently two excellent examples on offer.
Sainsbury's Discovery Collection Fronton, Taste the Difference (2022)
No.19 in Sainsbury's range showcasing unique styles of wine that are only available in limited quantities this is great value and worth seeking out while it is still available. Like Domaine Bastidum's Solis (above) it is a blend of Négrette and Malbec with soft tannins and blackcurrant, blackberry and raspberries strong on the nose. Tim Atkin describes it as "youthful, sappy and refreshing ... and having the underlying concentration and structure to stand up to the smokiness of a summer barbecue". (£9.00)
Sainsbury's Fronton Négrette Rosé, Taste the Difference (2020)
This is a great alternative for anyone fixated on Provence rosé, and considerably cheaper. In marked contrast to the red wine above it is the ideal summer aperitif or accompaniment to a meal in the sun. It is 80%+ Négrette with the rest of the blend being made up of Cabernet Franc and Syrah. With its attractive pink hue and floral aromas it is low in acidity and bone dry. (£7.50 and frequently discounted to £6.50)
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